I. BRAKING TECHNIQUES

1. Which brake is the most effective?

The front brake is the most effective, giving between 60 & 80% of the bike's stopping power in hard stops, depending upon surface conditions. This is because most of the weight of the bike and rider transfers forward onto the front wheel when the brakes are applied. A common example of weight transfer is when you trip on a gutter - your feet stop but momentum keeps the top of you going and you fall flat on your face. The weight transfer that takes place under braking on a motorcycle pushes the front wheel onto the ground and makes it grip very well.

2. Is the front wheel likely to skid if you apply the front brake hard?

No. The front wheel is likely to skid uncontrollably and bring you down only if you jam the front brake on hard. If you apply the front brake in a staged (progressive) process, the front wheel may skid but that skid is normally quite controllable.

3. Is the rear wheel likely to skid if you apply the brakes hard?

With most of the weight being on the front wheel, the rear wheel tends to be light under braking and will therefore lock up and skid very easily.

4. How do you control a rear wheel skid?

Control of a rear wheel skid is easy. Just keep your eyes up to the horizon and look where you WANT to go (not necessarily where you are actually going) and the bike will skid in a controllable manner with a minimum of fishtailing. Basic and advanced braking techniques are best learnt under controlled conditions rather than when a truck pulls out on you! Your local motorcycle school will run a fun braking exercise session for you and some mates if you care to call the school and arrange it.

5. Is braking a natural skill?

Braking, as with any riding skill, is a learned skill, not a natural one. This means you must practice the correct braking skills enough to make them an instinctive reaction before you can be sure that you will do the right things in an emergency. Overseas research has shown that, because of panic overpowering the rider's conscious reactions, nearly a third of all riders do absolutely nothing in an accident situation: they don't even apply the brakes!

If, however, your high level braking skills are so well learnt that they are instinctive, you will do it right, no matter what the situation. However, this requires you to do a lot of high level braking skill practice, the skills will not come with normal everyday riding. 

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6. Is there a special braking technique that ensures that a rider will get the best out of a motorcycle's brakes?

Yes. The process is called STAGED BRAKING and it involves the rider applying the motorcycle's brakes in a staged process. This gives the rider predictable, progressive braking.

7. In an emergency do we concentrate on using staged braking on both front and back brakes?

This is a controversial subject. Some experienced riders reckon that, even in an emergency when research has shown that panic tends to decrease your riding skills, they can apply the back brake perfectly with no loss of braking on the front. Well, research has shown that the average rider can only properly concentrate on the use of one brake in an emergency so, unless you think you're road motorcycling's equivalent of a top motorcycle racer, we would suggest that you concentrate on getting the best out
of one brake. Of the front and rear brake on a motorcycle, the one to concentrate on in an emergency is the front brake because if you get that one wrong, lock it up and don't correct that problem then you're going to crash..

According to the American Motorcycle Safety Foundation, if you try to get the best out of both brakes in an emergency, you will get the best out of neither. The MSF says you can't concentrate FULLY on both brakes at one time. You know your mother's old nag, "You can't concentrate on two things at one time"!

So, to get the best braking, you have to concentrate using either the front or the back brake and, since the front brake gives up to 80% of your braking power and incorrect application is likely to make you fall off, it makes sense to concentrate on the front brake.

The American Motorcycle Safety Foundation teaches their instructors that "in an emergency braking situation you should apply the back brake hard and let the back wheel slide if it wants to. This way you can concentrate on what is happening up front; there's enough to think about in the use of the front brake."

8. So how should I apply the rear brake?

Apply it and forget about it. Let the back wheel skid if necessary. Concentrate on using staged braking to harness the superior power of the front brake to save your life.

9. Is Staged Braking difficult to learn?

Given practice, the skill is not difficult to learn. The best way to learn it is to start off with a four stage application of the front brake. Later you can increase the number of stages to make your braking more and more progressive, if you want to.

10.Can you explain four stage braking in practical terms?

To understand four stage braking, think of a rider coming up to a set of lights. Stage One is the force with which he applies the front brake when he sees the lights turn orange some way ahead, in other words, lightly. 

At Stage One, the rider is applying the front brake to the point where the brake is just on and slowing the bike down very, very gently to roll to a stop.

Stage Two is the force the rider would use if he was a bit closer to the lights when they turned orange, and he had to make a normal, smooth stop at the lights. So, Stage Two is the firm pull used to bring the bike to a firm, but quiet stop. The rider applies his front brake to Stage One (friction point) before going on to apply to a steady force at Stage Two.

Stage Three. Our rider has dithered about whether to stop for the orange light before deciding he'd better. By this time, he has to stop quite hard to stop. So he applies the front brake to friction point (Stage One), then onto a firm pull (Stage Two) before applying pressure with a strong pull at Stage Three.

Stage Four. The rider very unwisely decides to run the orange only to find, just before he reaches the lights, that they turn red. In this serious situation the rider needs all the braking he's got. So he applies the front brake to friction point, moves onto the firm pull of Stage Two, then to the strong pull of Stage Three, before giving it all he's got at Stage Four.

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11. If you "give it all you've got" on the front brake at Stage Four, won't you get front wheel lockup?

Possibly but by using the staged braking process, by the time the tire gets to the point of locking up at Stage Four, the weight has transferred forward onto the front wheel and any tendency of the front tire to lose grip is both easily sensed and controlled, unlike a front wheel skid caused by a tire locking up when the brake is jammed on hard while weight is moving around on the bike under weight transfer.

With correct use of the Four Stage process, controlling a front wheel skid is simply a matter of keeping the wheel steering straight ahead as you relax pressure on the front brake to allow the wheel to revolve again and regain grip.

12. What will happen if the front wheel locks and I don't relax some pressure?

You'll fall off as the wheel will eventually tuck under and the bike (and you) will fall down.

13. How good can you get at emergency braking?

In emergency stops, expert riders are capable of controlling a front wheel skid by releasing pressure on the front brake just enough to get that wheel turning again without actually letting the brake right off.  This requires considerable sensitivity on the brakes and the only way you will gain this sort of sensitivity is to practice.

At the New Zealand MSC higher level Megarider sessions, the way the instructors tell if the pupil has reached a suitable standard is whether they can hear the front tire chattering as the tire grips at the point of adhesion during emergency stops.

14. Is a bald tire a liability when braking?

A treadless tire will quite adequately handle braking stresses on a perfect road surface. The trouble is that perfect road surfaces are more than rare - they're virtually extinct. Tire tread acts like a broom, sweeping debris, dirt, gravel and water etc off the road surface in order that the tire can grip the road.

The tread on a sensibly ridden motorcycle can comfortably handle most foreign matter on a road surface - with the possible exception of oil (especially diesel oil), thick mud, and smooth wet paint. But link a bald tire with foreign matter on the road surface and throw in braking stresses for good measure, and the crash will resound throughout the neighbourhood.

15. How should I brake on slippery and loose surfaces.

Carefully but not timidly. The secret to good braking on poor surfaces is observation. If you know what's under your wheels you can tailor your braking to the surface.

So, keep an eye on the road surface. If you cross a slippery surface under strong braking the front wheel may lock. This is why riders who brake late and hard for orange or red lights often spill off - into the middle of the intersection. The fall occurs because the rider fails to ease the front brake as the front wheel crosses the white line that crosses the lanes at the edge of the intersection. Then the front wheel breaks loose under braking on the slippery surface, the rider panics and freezes, and he and his bike head groundwards...

The basic requirements for braking on a loose surface such as gravel are the same as those applying to braking on a sealed surface. The difference is that you must observe the requirements more strictly on gravel.

You must brake in plenty of time, preferably brake while upright and in a straight line (any braking while leaned over in gravel is extremely hazardous), use both brakes very progressively, carefully interpret the noise from the front and rear tire while braking to detect and counteract any wheel lock-up, know your road surface, and take particular care when braking on gradients, inclines, and heavy cambers

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II. CHARACTERISTICS OF ELECTRIC BICYCLES

1. What is an electric bicycle?
It is an environment-friendly means of transportation with batteries as its power source, and quality and a quiet DC electric motor as the driving mechanism. As an embodiment of new and high technology, electric bicycles can be pedaled, power-driven or pedaled with the help of power.

2. What types of electric bicycles are there?
Electric bicycles can be classified into different types with wheels diameters that range from of 16 to  26 inches, etc. They can also be grouped into chain transmission, frictional transmission, camshaft transmission, and CVT (continuously variable) according to their transmission modes, or into general electric type, and mixed mode type according to their driving power. In addition, on the basis of the electric motor modes, such bicycles can also be categorized as brushless DC motor, brush-and-tooth motor and toothless brush-type motor. Veloteq electric bicycles employ only brushless DC motors which do not require the maintenance of brushed DC motors.

3. What are pedal-assist electric bicycles?
Pedal-assist electric bicycles are lightweight vehicles that require the use of both manual pedaling and electric motor power in order to achieve reasonable distance of travel. The majority these employ 150W motors and may use NiMH, Lithium Ion, or sealed lead acid batteries. They do not have the load capacity of large frame ebikes.

4. What are power-on-demand electric bicycles?
Power-on-demand electric bicycles furnish high power output using large electric motors and large power supplies. Veloteq large frame electric bicycles are all power-on-demand ebikes and use special, high power controllers, coupled with large power storage capacity to enable long distance travel without manual pedaling. Manual pedaling is used primarily for cresting hills, where electric power is not sufficient to surmount them. Veloteq is now introducing models which employ CVT transmission driven motors which enable the cresting of steel hills and long grades. All Veloteq large frame ebikes will use this type of motor in 2008.

5. Are ebikes with larger diameter wheels faster?
Of course not. As a matter of fact, the maximum speed of the bicycles with wheels of various diameters of 16 inches, 18 inches, 20 inches, 22 inches, 24 inches 26 inches and even 28 inches is the same, that is, 20km per hour which is the maximum allowed by US and Canadian regulations for the sake of both safety and speed.

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6. Pedal power or electric power, which is best?
It depends on circumstances. Use pedal assistance when surmounting inclines or riding against strong wind. Pedaling can effectively help to avoid the overworking of the electric motor and minimize the damage to such precision parts as the motor, controller, and battery under those conditions to prolong the service life of those components. Pedaling is almost always required when riding pedal-assist ebikes because of their limited range using electric power alone.

7. Which type of electric motor is better? Brushed or brushless type?
In the case of the brushed electric motor, the motor functions with the direct contact of the brush and commutator. Such motors offer high power and low cost, but the brushes need replacement once each year or two to maintain efficiency. Brushless electric motors avoid this disadvantage and are quieter, have a longer service life and consume less power, but the cost for controllers is higher.

8. What is the maximum driving distance of a newly-charged electric bicycle?
The maximum driving distance of a newly-charged electric vehicle is called “single charge driving distance”. The single charge driving distance of a of a Veloteq large frame power-on-demand ebike 30-50 miles (50-80 kms) depending on the model, terrain in which it is ridden, wind conditions, and the load, including the rider and any cargo. Pedal-assist ebikes generally have a range of >20 miles using motor power alone.

9. What is the service life of the battery? 　　
Veloteq uses VRSL (Voltage Regulated Sealed Lead Acid) colloid batteries. An special agent added to the electrolyte forms it into a gel-like material that also reduces sulphication of the electric plates in the battery. They are rated for 300 cycles if discharged continually to less than 75% of capacity, but can be recharged over 400 times if the capacity is not allowed to go below 80%. They are UL Listed. In extend the service life of battery, we advise owners to maintain and charge the battery regularly and promptly after each use and use pedal assistance when surmounting steep inclines. When the ebike is stored for prolonged periods, both the batteries and charger should be stored at temperatures above freezing and recharged monthly. We recommend that the power supply unit be removed from the ebike while it is in storage.

10. Are there new emerging technologies which will improve the performance of power supplies?
Definitely yes. Veloteq and PowerGenix Corporation of California are engaged in the development of a revolutionary new type of power supply that will offer the advantages of technologies such as NiMH and Lithium Ion, without the high cost and much publicized dangers of lithium. The power supply weight will be reduced by over 50%, recharge time will decrease to 80% of power capacity in one hour, size will be reduced, and the travel range will be increased. In addition, they will contain no toxic or polluting materials. This project is on track and scheduled for release in early 2008.

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11. Is recharging convenient? What cautions should the user take when charging?　　
The power supply may be recharged while installed on the ebike or while removed for indoor storage.

•    Be certain to plug the charger into the power supply input socket BEFORE attaching to the AC source. Connection to the AC source prior to connection to the power supply can cause a spark which, in the event that the batteries have been damaged, may cause any leaked gases to ignite, causing an explosion.

·         Under no circumstances should the power supply be recharged after storage at sub-freezing temperatures while installed on the ebike. If either the power supply or the charger has been stored in sub-freezing temperatures, move them to a warm area and allow them to adjust to the ambient temperature. Remove the top lid of the power supply to vent any hydrogen gas that may build up if the batteries were damaged. Also, carefully monitor the recharge time in case the charger has been damaged. Carefully inspect the batteries to detect any sign of swelling of the battery walls. If the batteries are swollen, do not attempt to use them or continue recharging. This may cause an explosion. If the batteries are able to sustain a charge properly, carefully observe the condition of the charger to insure that the status light indicates successful charge. It they status light does not change to green, this is an indication that the charger has been damaged. It should be immediately replaced.

·         Under no circumstances, should the battery be laid up-side down or the service life and the charging effect would be adversely affected.

•      When removing the battery from the ebike, do not touch the second electrode nipple under the battery case with bare hands or other conductive materials, otherwise, a short circuit may occur resulting in personal injury.

•      The user should place the battery that is being externally charged in a dry and well-ventilated place. Do not place any cover on the battery being charged or the battery may be damaged for due to overheating.

•      Do not permit any liquids to enter the battery recharger that is either in function or in care so as to avoid short circuit; do not use in the rain. Do not overturn or drop the charger.

•      Use only chargers supplied by Veloteq. These have been tested specifically to meet the amperage and voltage requirements of Veloteq ebikes.

•      During the charging process, if an abnormal smell is detected or the charger unit becomes unusually hot, these are indications of faulty operation. The charger must be replaced at once before re-attempting to charge the power supply.

·     12. How long will it take to charge the power supply?
A new battery should be charged for 7-8 hours and flow charged for 1-2 hours before its first service. For routine charging, over-charge or over-discharge must be avoided. The power supply should be recharged promptly after each use, which will greatly increase the life span of the unit. In case of shorter riding distances, 2-3 hour recharge should be sufficient. The Veloteq/PowerGenix power supply which will be introduced early in 2008 will permit the reduction of the recharge time to one hour for 80% of capacity and full charge in under two hours.

13. Is it safe to ride an electric bicycle? Will the rider exposed to a risk of shock? 　　
Veloteq ebikes operate on a voltage of only 48V. You can be shocked by mishandling, however, not enough to constitute a serious safety threat. In addition, intelligent functions are incorporated in Veloteq ebikes which include automatic power cut-off upon braking and numerous electrical devices such as circuit breakers which will cut off the power to protect the motor and controller. 　　

14. Can I ride an electric bicycle in the rain?
Veloteq ebikes perform very well in rain, however, under no circumstances should be ebike or power supply be subjected to immersion in standing water. This may subject the controller, motor, and other electrical parts to severe damage. If the ebike has been exposed to flooded conditions, the power supply must be removed and the ebike taken to a service location for inspection and restoration to working order. DO NOT SWITCH ON AN EBIKE THAT HAS BEEN EXPOSED TO THE ABOVE CONDITIONS!

15. Can Veloteq ebikes be used in winter and summer?
Yes. They are rated for use in temperatures ranging from -15C to 50C . They perform well in summer and in winter. The power supply will be less efficient in winter than in summer, which will reduce the riding distance and require more frequent recharging. Ebikes and particularly, chargers, should not be subjected to protracted exposure to sub-freezing temperatures!

16. Are Veloteq ebikes economical to ride?
Electric bicycles have proven to be very economical means of transportation in comparison with other transportation means of local transportation for commuting and leisure. The cost of recharging the power supply is less than 10 cents for up to 50 miles (80 kms) of riding. If properly maintained by the user, the cost of maintenance is extremely low.

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